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01/26/2007
Cali Surfing: The Begining
I rode my first wave back in about 1968 in southern Delaware on a 10' Dextra surfboard that my dad had bought at Sears. He bought it for my two sisters who thought it would be a great way to pick up guys in the line up. Once I stood on the wave, I was hooked. I spent days and days surfing the right at Indian River. I was so stoked when I moved to Cali in 1981 and lived on the beach in Carmel. I surfed most every day and charged on some really nice waves in Carmel, Big Sur and Santa Cruz with my buddy Jamie. There was nothing as fine as some cold water and big waves. Here's a narrated picture tour of some of the breaks and folks that shaped the surf scene way back when.
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